1917—American Dressmaking Step by Step
by Mme. Lydia Trattles Coates

Chapter 1—Sewing and Dressmaking Accessories

Lesson 1

The articles usually required for use in sewing and dressmaking are:

1. Needles
2. Thread
3. Thimble
4. Pins
5. Emery
6. Cutting-shears
7. Scissors
8. Buttonhole-scissors
9. Tape Measure
10. Yardstick
11. Tailors' Chalk
12. Skirt-marker
13. Dress-form
14. Sewing-machine
15. Pressing Supplies
16. Patterns

Needles

In sewing, the size of the needle depends upon the eye adjustment of the sewer, the texture of the material and the size of the thread. A needle should be chosen which can be threaded and used without unnecessary eye strain. It should be just large enough to carry the thread through the material without bending the needle.

Sewing Needles are of three kinds:

1. Sharps, which are long needles used in general dressmaking.
2. Ground Downs, a medium length needle used for fine sewing.
3. Betweens, a short needle used in tailoring.

Millinery Needles are long pointed needles used for basting in dressmaking.

Needles with Large Eyes and Pointed Ends are:

1. Crewel Needles
2. Darning Needles
3. Embroidery Needles

Needles with Large Eyes and Blunt Ends are:

1. Bodkins
2. Tape Needles
3. Tapestry Needles

Threads

Threads are of three kinds:

1. Silk used to sew silk, wool, or silk and wool materials.
2. Cotton used to sew cotton materials.
3. Linen used for strong sewing on cotton and linen materials.

Sizes of Needles and Threads

The following schedule will assist in choosing needles and threads which can be used well together:

Cotton Thread	Linen Thread	Silk Thread	Needles
8-10	25-30		1
10-20	30-40		2
20-24	40-60		3
24-36	60-80	E	4
36-40	80-100	D	5
40-60	100-120	C	6
60-80	120-150	B	7
80-90	150-170	A	8
90-100	170-180	0	9
100-120	180-200	00	10
120-160	200-220	000	11
160-200	220-250		12

The Thimble

The thimble should be of silver, aluminum, or celluloid. In size it should fit the middle or longest finger of the right hand. In length it should allow perfect freedom of the first joint of the finger upon which it is used.

Pins

Any pins used in dressmaking should either be made of steel or be small pins of good quality. They should have very sharp points so as not to mark the material or cut the threads.

Emery

An emery with which to polish rough needles will be found useful. An emery bag can be made, shaping the bag like a pincushion.

Shears and Scissors

A pair of large cutting-shears 8 to 10 inches long and a pair of scissors from 3 to 5 inches long are needed. The shears should be very sharp so that they will not haggle the material. When cutting, keep the flat, wide part of the shears on the table. If buttonhole-scissors are desired they should be about 5 inches long.

Tape Measure and Yardstick

A tape measure and a yardstick are needed constantly in dressmaking. Choose a tape measure 1/2 inch wide and if possible one numbering from both ends of the measure. The yardstick should be at least one inch wide.

Tailors' Chalk

Tailors' chalk is used to mark margins, construction points, hem turnings, etc. It is very inexpensive and a box containing several colors is a useful addition to the dressmaking supplies.

Skirt-marker

A skirt-marker is used to mark the desired length on a skirt. Any good hem-marker will do, or you may notch pasteboard the exact number of inches the skirt is to hang from the floor.

Dress-form

If you do your own dressmaking, or have it done in your home, you will find a dress-form invaluable, not only as a means to secure correct and perfect lines and insure a well-fitting garment, but to save yourself the time and tediousness of trying on your gowns.

In order to get the greatest benefit from your dress-form it should be adjusted until it exactly represents your own lines, proportions and size in every respect. This is easily done in the following manner:

1. Pad or adjust the dress-form to your own measurements.
2. Make a tight-fitting lining, fitting it over your body, to make a duplicate of your figure.
3. Then dress the form in the same corset, corset-cover, and petticoat over which the garment is to be worn.

Sewing-machine

A good sewing-machine is most important in garment-making. Study your machine until you understand how to use and care for it correctly and make any adjustments necessary. Information of this character is usually given by the firms handling machines, as different machines operate in accordance with their type. One should become familiar with each of the machine attachments, as hours of laborious work can be saved by the use of the ruffler, hemmers, binders, etc.

The Pressing Supplies

Detailed information concerning the pressing-boards, pressing-cloths and other pressing articles will be found in Lesson 4.

The Pattern

There has been nothing added to the modern conveniences which has meant more to the average home woman than paper patterns. These patterns can be purchased for any garment for a few cents. They supply line, style, size, and the various other helps which make it possible for women to make their own clothes in a stylish, up-to-data manner. For full information as to the paper pattern and its use see Chapter IV.