1917—American Dressmaking Step by Step
by Mme. Lydia Trattles Coates

Table of Contents (long)

Preface

Chapter I—Sewing and Dressmaking Accessories

Lesson 1—Sewing and Dressmaking Accessories

Chapter II—The Weave, Fold and Preparation of Materials

Lesson 2—The Weave

Lesson 3—Correct and Economical Folding of Materials

Lesson 4—Sponging and Shrinking

Lesson 5—Correct Methods of Pressing

Chapter III—Body Measurements

Lesson 6—General Instructions for Taking Measurements

Lesson 7—Ladies' Measurements

Lesson 8—Misses', Girls' and Juniors', and Boys' Measurements

Chapter IV—Patterns

Lesson 9—Selection of Patterns

Lesson 10—Study of the Pattern

Lesson 11—Pattern Measurements

Lesson 12—To Prepare the Pattern to be Measured

Lesson 13—Waist Measurements

Lesson 14—Sleeve Measurements

Lesson 15—Collar Measurements

Lesson 16—Skirt Measurements

Lesson 17—Table of Approximate Sizes of Proportionate Measurements of Patterns

Lesson 18—Specifications for Fitting

Lesson 19—Pattern Alterations

Lesson 20—To Alter Patterns for Fitted Garments

Lesson 21—To Alter for Round Shoulders or Protruding Shoulder-blades

Lesson 22—For Very Straight Shoulders or Receding Shoulder-blades

Lesson 23—Loose Waist Alterations

Lesson 24—Alterations of Sleeve Pattern

Lesson 25—To Alter the One-piece Sleeve

Lesson 26—To Alter the Kimono and Raglan Sleeves

Lesson 27—Special Sleeve Alterations

Lesson 28—To Alter Cuff Patterns

Lesson 29—Alteration of Collar Patterns

Lesson 30—Alteration of Skirt Patterns

Lesson 31—Alteration for the Large Abdomen

Lesson 32—Altering Misses', Girls' and Juniors', and Children's Patterns

Lesson 33—Altering Boys' Patterns

Chapter V— Cutting

Lesson 34—Laying the Pattern on the Material for Cutting

Lesson 35—General Instructions for Cutting

Chapter VI—Fastenings and Stitches

Lesson 36—Fastenings

Lesson 37—The Knot

Lesson 38—The Straight Stitch

Lesson 39—Even Basting

Lesson 40—Uneven Basting

Lesson 41—Combination Basting

Lesson 42—Diagonal Basting (Padding Stitch)

Lesson 43—The Running Stitch

Lesson 44—The Back Stitch (Working Upward)

Lesson 45—The Back Stitch (Working Downward)

Lesson 46—The Half Back Stitch (Working Upward)

Lesson 47—The Half Back Stitch (Working Downward), also called The Seed Stitch

Lesson 48—The Slant Stitch

Lesson 49—The Straight Hemming Stitch

Lesson 50—The Slant Hemming Stitch

Lesson 51—The Invisible Slip Stitch

Lesson 52—The Blind Stitch

Lesson 53—Top Stitching (Overcasting, Overhanding, and Whip Stitching)

Lesson 54—The Catch Stitch

Chapter VII—Construction Work

Lesson 55—Basting Garments Together

Lesson 56—The Plain Seam

Lesson 57—The Turned-in Seam

Lesson 58—The Fell Seam

Lesson 59—The French Fell Seam

Lesson 60—The French Seam

Lesson 61—The Flat French Seam

Lesson 62—The French Fold Seam

Lesson 63—The Roll Seam

Lesson 64—The Whip Seam

Lesson 65—The Open Bound Seam

Lesson 66—The Closed Bound Seam

Lesson 67—The Flat Bound Seam

Lesson 68—The Stayed Seam

Lesson 69—To Stay and Bind an Open Seam

Lesson 70—To Stay and Bind a Closed Seam

Lesson 71—The Single Stitched Seam

Lesson 72—The Double Stitched Seam

Lesson 73—The Broad Stitched Seam

Lesson 74—The Strap Seam

Lesson 75—The Welt Seam

Lesson 76—The Single Stitched French Welt Seam

Lesson 77—The Double Stitched French Welt Seam

Lesson 78—The Tailored Lap Seam

Lesson 79—The Overlap Seam

Lesson 80—The Fold Lap Seam

Lesson 81—The Plain Slot Seam

Lesson 82—The Stayed Slot Seam

Lesson 83—The Overslot Seam

Lesson 84—The False Slot Seam

Lesson 85—Flat Uniform Hem

Lesson 86—The Pin Hem

Lesson 87—The Damask Hem (sometimes called The Napery Hem)

Lesson 88—The French Hem or the Flannel Hem

Lesson 89—The Length Hem

Lesson 90—The Gathered Hem

Lesson 91—The Roll Hem

Lesson 92—To Hem Round Edges

Lesson 93—To Cut Facings

Lesson 94—To Apply Facings

Lesson 95—Sewed-on Facing

Lesson 96—Set-on Facing

Lesson 97—The Fitted Facing

Lesson 98—The Exceptional Facing

Lesson 99—The Sewed-on Extension Facing

Lesson 100—The Set-on Extension Facing

Lesson 101—To Cut the Piped Facing

Lesson 102—To Apply the Piped Facing

Lesson 103—To Cut Bias Piping

Lesson 104—To Cut Piping on the Straight of the Material

Lesson 105—To Cut Bias Double Folds

Lesson 106—To Apply Piping

Lesson 107—To Make the Double Fold Piping

Lesson 108—The Milliners' Band

Lesson 109—The Milliners' Fold

Lesson 110—The Corded Piping

Lesson 111—The Tuck Cording

Lesson 112—To Cover a Cord

Lesson 113—General Instructions for Making Tucks and Plaits

Lesson 114—To Make a Gage to Mark Tucks or Plaits

Lesson 115—Even Tucks

Lesson 116—Even Plaits

Lesson 117—To Make Graduated Tucks or Plaits

Lesson 118—Group Tucks or Plaits

Lesson 119—Pin Tucks

Lesson 120—Crosswise or Nun Tucks

Lesson 121—Side Plaits

Lesson 122—Box Plaits

Lesson 123—The Inverted Plait

Lesson 124—General Instructions for Making Ruffles

Lesson 125—The Headed Ruffle

Lesson 126—The Faced Ruffle

Lesson 127—The Fall Ruffle

Lesson 128—The Turn-in or Circular Ruffle

Lesson 129—Ruffles Applied With the Welt Seam

Lesson 130—Ruffles Applied With the Fell Seam

Lesson 131—Ruffles Applied With the French Seam

Lesson 132—Ruffles Applied With a Flat French Seam

Lesson 133—Ruffles Applied With the French Welt Seam

Lesson 134—Ruffles Applied With the Overlap Seam (also called The Fold Ruffle)

Lesson 135—The Faced Joined  Ruffle

Lesson 136—The Roll Ruffle

Lesson 137—Joining Ruffles With Insertion Having a Margin

Lesson 138—Joining Ruffles With No Margin on the Insertion

Lesson 139—The Band Ruffle

Chapter VIII—Specific Work on Garments

Lesson 140—Preparation of a Loose Waist or Corset-cover for Fitting

Lesson 141—The Draping Line

Lesson 142—The Temporary Belt

Lesson 143—Hanging a Loose Waist or Corset-cover

Lesson 144—Waist Alterations for Fitted Garments (such as linings, waists, tailored coats, Princess slips, brassieres, etc.)

Lesson 145—Alterations for Loose Waists

Lesson 146—To Remove the Garment from the Temporary Belt

Lesson 147—To Stay the Gathers at the Waist-line

Lesson 148—To Make the Plain Band

Lesson 149—Joining Bands

Lesson 150—The Faced Band

Lesson 151—To Make the Band Casing

Lesson 152—The Plain Casing

Lesson 153—The Over-casing

Lesson 154—The Unlined Peplum

Lesson 155—The Lined Peplum

Lesson 156—The Band and Peplum

Lesson 157—Joining Garments With Insertion or Beading Having a Margin

Lesson 158—Joining Garments With Beading or Insertion Having No Margin

Lesson 159—To Finish the Bottom of the Fitted Waist

Lesson 160—To Join Waists and Skirts Together

Lesson 161—The Lined Vest

Lesson 162—The Unlined Vest

Lesson 163—The Lined Yoke

Lesson 164—The Unlined Yoke

Lesson 165—To Put on an Unlined Collar

Lesson 166—The Lined Collars

Lesson 167—Faced Collars

Lesson 168—The Lined Revers

Lesson 169—The Unlined Rever

Lesson 170—To Join Collars and Revers

Lesson 171—Classification of Sleeves

Lesson 172—To Prepare Sleeves to Be Sewed In

Lesson 173—To Prepare Sleeves to Be Set In

Lesson 174—To Put in Sleeves

Lesson 175—Sleeve Alterations

Lesson 176—To Turn the Seam of the Sewed-in Sleeve

Lesson 177—To Finish the Sewed-in Sleeve

Lesson 178—To Finish the Set-in Sleeve

Lesson 179—To Finish the Bottoms of Sleeves

Lesson 180—The Lined Cuff

Lesson 181—The Unlined Cuff

Lesson 182—To Make Belts

Lesson 183—To Make Girdles

Lesson 184—Preparation of a Skirt for Hanging

Lesson 185—The Stay Belt

Lesson 186—To Hang a Skirt

Lesson 187—Skirt Alterations

Lesson 188—Plackets and Closings

Lesson 189—The Lap Placket (for Wide Seams)

Lesson 190—The Invisible Lap Placket (for Wide Seams)

Lesson 191—To Stay the Lap Plackets

Lesson 192—The Extension Placket (for Narrow Seams)

Lesson 193—To Stay the Extension Placket

Lesson 194—The Invisible Extension Placket (for Narrow Seams)

Lesson 195—The Continuous Lap Placket (No Seam)

Lesson 196—The Bound Closing (No Seam)

Lesson 197—The Fold Lap Placket

Lesson 198—The Sleeve Placket

Lesson 199—The Slash Pocket

Lesson 200—The Pocket Lap

Lesson 201—The False Lap

Lesson 202—Side Pockets for Boys' Trousers

Lesson 203—The Patch Pocket

Lesson 204—The Embroidery or Lace Casing

Lesson 205—Apron Ties

Chapter IX—Finishing Work

Lesson 206—Position of the Buttonhole

Lesson 207—The Plain Buttonhole

Lesson 208—Barred Ends

Lesson 209—Cart-wheel Ends

Lesson 210—The French Buttonhole

Lesson 211—The Tailored Buttonhole

Lesson 212—The Bound Buttonhole

Lesson 213—The Faced Bound Buttonhole

Lesson 214—Sewing on Buttons

Lesson 215—Hooks and Eyes

Lesson 216—Loops

Lesson 217—The Buttonhole Loop

Lesson 218—The Arrow Head

Lesson 219—The Crows-foot

Lesson 220—The Bar Tacks

Lesson 221—Tailors' Tacks

Lesson 222—The Loose French Tack

Lesson 223—The Close French Tack

Lesson 224—The Square Corner

Lesson 225—The Mitered Corner

Lesson 226—The Diagonal Fold Corner

Lesson 227—Setting In Lace Insertion

Lesson 228—Setting In Insertion for Less Important Work

Lesson 229—Setting In Insertion for Very Quick Work

Lesson 230—Whipping On Lace Edging

Lesson 231—The Full On Lace

Lesson 232—Joining Lace

Lesson 233—Setting In Lace Designs

Lesson 234—Setting In Medallions

Lesson 235—Veining and Seaming

Lesson 236—Plain Hemstitching

Lesson 237—Double Hemstitching

Lesson 238—Serpentine or Zigzag Hemstitching

Lesson 239—Machine Hemstitching

Chapter X—Ornamental Work

Lesson 240—The Cross-stitch

Lesson 241—The Blanket Stitch

Lesson 242—Variations of the Buttonhole or Loop Stitch

Lesson 243—The Outline Stitch

Lesson 244—The Seed Stitch

Lesson 245—The Chain-stitch

Lesson 246—The Feather Stitch

Lesson 247—The Briar Stitch

Lesson 248—Double and Triple Briar Stitch

Lesson 249—Fagoting

Lesson 250—Couching

Lesson 251—Outlining Embroidery Designs and Scallops

Lesson 252—Padding Embroidery Designs and Scallops

Lesson 253—Buttonholing, Scallop Embroidery, or Loop Stitch

Lesson 254—Solid Embroidery

Lesson 255—The Overcast Eyelet

Lesson 256—The Buttonhole Eyelet

Lesson 257—The French Knot

Lesson 258—Appliqué Work

Lesson 259—Smocking

Chapter XI—Darning and Patching

Lesson 260—Darning

Lesson 261—The Running Darn

Lesson 262—The Woven Darn

Lesson 263—The Re-enforced Darn

Lesson 264—The Set-in Patch

Lesson 265—The Overhand Patch

Lesson 266—Catch Stitch or Flannel Patch

Chapter XII—Maternity and Infants' Garments

Lesson 267—Maternity Garments

Lesson 268—Infants' Wardrobe

Lesson 269—Infants' Dresses

Lesson 270—The Nightslips

Lesson 271—The Petticoat

Lesson 272 Flannel Petticoats

Lesson 273—Kimonos, Wrappers, and Sacks

Lesson 274—Pinning Blankets

Lesson 275—The Diapers

Lesson 276—The Diaper Cover

Lesson 277—The Flannel Band

Lesson 278—The Shirts

Lesson 279—The Stockings

Lesson 280—The Bootees

Lesson 281—Bibs

Lesson 282—The Coat

Lesson 283—Caps and Bonnets

Lesson 284—The Veil

Lesson 285—The Shawl

Lesson 286—The Carriage-robe and Pillow

Lesson 287—The Receiving Blanket

Chapter XIII—Children's Garments

Lesson 288—Routine of Making Children's Clothes

Lesson 289—Routine of Making an Underwaist

Lesson 290—Routine of Making Children's Drawers

Lesson 291—Routine of Making a Girl's or Child's Petticoat

Lesson 292—Routine of Making a Girl's or Child's Underslip

Lesson 293—Routine of Making a Girl's or Child's Dress

Lesson 294—Routine of Making a Middy

Lesson 295—Routine of Making Children's Rompers

Lesson 296—Routine of Making a Child's Nightgown

Chapter XIV—Tailoring

Lesson 297—General Instructions for Tailoring

Lesson 298—Tailored Coats and Jackets

Lesson 299—Lined and Unlined, Semitailored, and Utility Coasts and Jackets

Lesson 300—Boys' Norfolk Jacket

Lesson 301—Boys' Trousers

Lesson 302—Boys' Blouse

Chapter XV—Steps in Garment Making

Lesson 303—Routine of Making a Waist

Lesson 304—Routine of Making a Skirt

Lesson 305—Routine of Making a Fitted Lining

Lesson 306—Routine of Making a Princess Dress

Lesson 307—Routine of Making a Princess Slip

Lesson 308—Routine of Making a Petticoat

Lesson 309—Routine of Making a Corset-cover

Lesson 310—Routine of Making a Brassiere

Lesson 311—Routine of Making Drawers

Lesson 312—Routine of Making Bloomers

Lesson 313—Routine of Making a Chemise

Lesson 314—Routine of Making an Envelop Chemise

Lesson 315—Routine of Making a Nightgown

Lesson 316—Routine of Making a Bath-robe

Lesson 317—Routine of Making a Dressing-sack

Lesson 318—Routine of Making an Apron

Lesson 319—Routine of Making a Tea Apron

Lesson 320—Routine of Making a Bathing Suit

Lesson 321—Routine of Making a Cape