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1926—The New-Way Course in Fashionable Clothes-Making
Table of Contents (Long)
A Little Chat Before We Begin
To the women who have sewed
First of all is a study of types
Importance of harmony in dress
Selection of colors
Color chart
Which type of figure have you?
Your clothes express your personality
How to Study
What you will need
Hand sewing needles
Threads
Basting thread
Pins
Thimble
Bodkin
Scissors
Emery
Tape measure and yard stick
Tracing wheel
Tailor's chalk
A skirt marker
Press supplies
Dress form
Sewing table
Pin cushion
Afterword
Questions
Talk on Sewing Machine
A talk about the sewing machine
The belt
Placing the needle
Winding the bobbin
Regulating stitch
Adjusting tensions
First Dressmaking Stitches
Basting
Even basting
Uneven basting
Diagonal basting
How to stamp a design
Running stitch
Half-back stitch
Combined stitch
Back stitch
Over handing
Blind stitching
Hemming stitches
Catch stitches
Afterword
Questions
Homework problems
Seams
A lesson on seams
Plain seam
Fell seam
French fell seams
Rolled seam
Oversewed seam
French seam
Tailored seam
Plain slot seam
Flannel seams
Lap seam
Tailored lap seam
Staying bias seams
Tucks and the Tucker
Tucks made by hand
Tucks made with the tucker
Questions
Homework problems
Hems
The hem
Hem made by machine
Using the hemmer
Hand hems
Plain hem
Pin hem
Napery hem
Mitered corners—bias mitering
Square corner
Catch stitch hem
French or flannel hem
Length hem
Gathered hem
Hemming curved edges
Questions
Homework problems
Trimming
The ruffle as a trimming
The straight ruffle
The bias ruffle
The circular ruffle
Ruffling by machine
To use the ruffler
Fall ruffle
Faced ruffle
Finishing with welt seam
Ruffles applied with felled seam
Finishing with over-lap seam
Finishing with French seam
Finishing with French welt seam
The faced joined ruffle
The roll ruffle
Ruffles applied to insertion
The band ruffle
Important note
Questions
Homework problems
Facings
What is a facing?
How to make bias facings
Sewed-on bias facings
Fitted facings
Exceptional facings
Extension facings
Embroidery edges
Making a collar and cuff set
A concluding word to the student
Questions
Homework problems
The Fashion Silhouette
The story of style
How fashion was born
Woman's inherent love of beauty
The part that the silhouette plays
Adapting styles to your figure
How to find YOUR silhouette
Correct silhouette for the short-waisted woman
When one has a high-hipped figure
Afterword
Uses of Bias Binding
The many uses of the bias binding
The cutting gauge on your sewing machine
The binder
Binding straight or curved edges
Dress trimmings
Bindings simplify baby's clothes
Household articles
Gift making is easy with bias binding
Questions
Homework problems
Plackets
The importance of plackets
Continuous plackets
Lap placket
To stay lap placket
Extension placket
The fold placket
Sleeve placket
Hemmed pocket
The question of closings
Set-on closing
Plain fly closing
Closing under box plait
Closing under tucks
Armcye closing
Afterword
Pipings/h4>
Pipings–their purpose
Piped facing
To cut and fold a bias piping
Double bias fold
To apply bias piping
Piping applied in seams
Applying double fold piping
Milliners' bands and folds
To make milliners' bands
To make milliners' folds
Cording
Cording on the sewing machine
Drawing cord in piping
Corded tucks
To cover cord
Fastenings
What shall the fastening be?
Sewing fasteners
Marking position of snap fasteners
To sew fasteners in place
Sewing hooks and eyes in place
When fastenings are on tape
Sewing on buttons
Buttonholes
Plain buttonholes
The cart wheel end
To finish the buttonhole
French buttonholes
Tailored buttonholes
Bound buttonholes
Cut-in buttonholes
Braid
The uses of braiding
Military braid
Applying braid by machine
Applying soutache braid
Quilting
Machine quilting
Questions
Homework problems
Embroidery
Where women triumph
What is hand embroidery?
When to use embroidery
Hemstitching
Hand hemstitching
Double hemstitching
Blanket stitch
Cross stitch
Seed stitch
The chain stitch
Feather stitching
Briar stitch
Faggoting
Smocking
Couching
French knots
Satin stitch
Scallop edges
Over hand eyelets
Appliqué work
Crowsfoot
Arrow heads
Bar tacks
Tailor's tacks
How to stamp a design
The Edge Stitcher
Attaching the edge stitcher
Trimming suggestions
Sewing lace by hand
How to set in medallion
Hemming and sewing lace by machine
Seam beading
Aprons
About the apron
An apron for housework
A bungalow apron
Aprons for children
A sewing apron
A tea apron
Making a house apron
To the student
Questions
Homework problems
Clothes Budget
The clothes budget
Dressmakers' terms
Shopping notes
Buying ready-made garments
What shall the material be?
Woolen materials
Silk materials
Cotton materials
Linen
Extending the life of clothes
Remodeling
Renovating
Sponging and washing silks
Renovating ribbons
Renewing woolen materials
How to dry-clean
Removing stains
Caring for children's clothes
Questions
Textiles
The story of textiles
Spinning
The advent of machinery
Cotton
Wool
Linen
Silk
The process of weaving
The plain weave
A few plain weave materials and their uses
Variations of the plain weave
A few clothes of rib weave and where to use them
Basket weave
A few clothes of basket weave and their uses
Plain and variations of plain weave
Pile weave
A few clothes of pile weave and their uses
A few clothes of cross weave and their uses
Lappet weave
The twill weave
A few clothes of twill weave and their uses
Twill weaves
Satin weave
A few clothes of satin weave and their uses
Figure weave
A few clothes of figure weave and their uses
Satin and figure weaves
Process of finishing the cloth
Bleaching
Printing
Dyeing
Cloth dressing
Mercerization
Wool dressing
Comparison of woolens and worsted
Knitting
Felting
Preparing Material
Preparing material for sewing
Shrinking cotton and linen materials
Sponging and pressing
Preparing to cut the material
Paper Patterns
Origin of the paper pattern
Pattern measurements
Taking your measurements
Children's measurements
The use of patterns
Fitting Patterns
Making the model pattern
Altering the commercial pattern
To alter the skirt pattern
Fitting the waist of the model lining
To fit the skirt
Finding the length of the skirt
The Dress Form
Use of the form in adaptive dressmaking
Adapting styles to your figure
The Dress Form Lining
Altering the pattern
Cutting the lining
To fit the lining
Altering the sleeve
Basting the sleeve
Padding the Dress Form
To pad a dress form
Padding the sleeves
The New Home-Made Dress Form
Materials needed
Making the form
Making the chemise
The Well Dressed Child
Simplicity–the keynote
Comfort in children's clothes
What shall the material be?
The dressy occasions
The awkward age
Let the children choose
Maternity Clothes
Making maternity clothes
The skirt
The waist and fitted lining
Three important considerations – style, color, fabric
The infant's layette
Diapers
Shirt
Stockings and booties
Bibs
Bands
Diaper cover
Veil
Receiving blanket
Carriage robe
Pillow covers
Cap or bonnet
Infant's dress
Petticoats
Flannel petticoats
Kimonas and sacks
Slip
Pinning blanket
The coat
Baby bunting or infant's outdoor sleeping bag
The charm of motherhood
Children's Clothes
Making children's clothes
The middy blouse
Children's underwear
Drawers and bloomers
Petticoats
Night gown
Rompers
Women's Pajamas
The vogue of pajamas for women
The one-piece pajama
Petticoats
Petticoats
About petticoat materials
The two-piece shadow-proof petticoat
Three-piece petticoat
Petticoat ruffles
Silk petticoat
Pretty Underthings
The fascination of pretty underthings
Appropriate materials
Pretty trimmings
The nightgown
Altering the kimona nightgown pattern or the kimona apron pattern
Trimming suggestions
Flannelette gown
Bloomers and drawers
Drawers
The chemise
Camisoles
Making the camisole
Brassiere
Blouses
A voile blouse
Other blouses
To change the collar
Kimonas, Bathrobes, Boudoir Caps
Kimonas
The bathrobe
Boudoir caps
Making a blouse
Correct Clothes for Every Occasion
The wedding gown–and trousseau
What to wear to the wedding
Dinner dress
Clothes for tea-time
Lawn parties and garden fetes
Dance dress
Dress at the theatre
Street clothes
Dressing for church
When one is mourning
The business woman
The Tailored Pocket
The patch pocket
The welt or slash pocket
The bound pocket
The stand pocket
The flap pocket
Tailored Blouses
When the tailored blouse is worn
Use of the pattern
Making the collar and cuffs
Skirts
A study of skirts
Making the tailored skirt
Pressing the skirt
Pockets and trimmings
Color Applied to Dress
A word on the theory of color
Hue
Value
Intensity
Beautiful colors correctly used
Color types
The blonde
Titian haired blonde
The brunette
The gray or white haired lady
A sallow complexion
Florid complexion
Colors becoming to nearly all types
Choose these colors carefully
A few concluding hints
Design Through the Ages
A study of dress design
The fascination of dress design
Design as a means of self-expression
Design through the ages
A short study of historic costume
The Greek and Roman influence
A Study of the Human Figure
The silhouette
The part that the silhouette plays
Adapting styles to your figure
How to find YOUR silhouette
Theory and Practice of Dress Design
The requirements of dress design
Harmony
The effect of line
Harmonious decorative design
Proportion
The proportion of the figure
Decoration must be in proportion
Balance
Rhythm
Emphasis
Design influenced by the occasion
Economical considerations
More on Dress Design
Four essentials in dress design
Accessories
Hats
Hosiery
Shoes
Gloves and handbags
A summary of suggestions
The thin person
The stout figure
Large waist and hips
If you are short waisted
If you are low waisted
For the person having a long neck
If you have a small face
What to Wear and When to Wear It
Correct clothes for every occasion
At home
The business girl
What to wear to school
Street and shopping clothes
Sport clothes
Afternoon affairs
Clothes for tea-time
Lawn parties and garden fetes
For evening wear
The dinner dress
The dance dress
Dress at the theater
The wedding gown–and trousseau
What to wear to the wedding
What to wear when traveling
For mourning
The One-Piece Dress
An ideal business garment
Materials to use
Making the one-piece dress
Sleeves
The fitted sleeve
The fitted sleeve with seam to elbow
Applying the sleeve
Sports Apparel
Materials for sports clothes
Colors for sports clothes
Classes of sports dresses
When and where to wear sports clothes
Sport coats
Accessories
Sports clothes for golfing
Sports clothes for tennis
Sports clothes for tramping and climbing
Sweaters, scarfs and hats
Dress Design
A study of dress design
Dress design
Design as a means of self-expression
The requirements of design
A study of the human figure
Designing for individual types
Color, texture and weave
Combining colors
Ornament in design
Beauty in design
The Fascination of Dress Design
The first step in design
Decoration
Design through the ages
A short study of historic costume
The Greek and Roman influence
Trimmings
The part that trimming plays
Hand embroidery
Beading
Braiding
Laces
Ribbons
Your most valuable trimming ally
The Evening Dress
The etiquette of the evening gown
Appropriate materials
The two predominating styles
The neck of the gown
Some suggestions
The semi-evening gown
Comfort in evening clothes
Making the gown
Afternoon Gown
The etiquette of the afternoon gown
Making the afternoon gown
Making the skirt
Introduction to the Dress Shop
The newer opportunity for women
Some preliminary requisites
The Dress Shop
Importance of the name
Choosing the location
Study the location
Furnishings
Furnishing the shop
Supplies
Boxes for packing
Magazines
Reception Room
The fitting room
Stationery
How to word the announcement
Billheads
Business cards
Other printed matter
Keeping record of customers
Getting new customers
Selecting Employees
Selecting salespeople
Concerning their dress
The other workers
Bookkeeping
Purpose of this lesson
Your bank account
What every shop owner should know
Computing overhead expenses
Keeping memorandums
Business Methods
To the dressmaker
Greeting the customer
Little services that count
The ethics of dressmaking
Taking stock
Seasonal Changes
The good seasons–and the bad
Suggestions for the Christmas season
Other side-line suggestions
Maternity clothes
Underwear and lingerie
Children's clothes
The millinery department
What you will need
Of importance
Clothes questions asked and answered
