1928—The New-Way Course in Millinery and Hat Design

Table of Contents—Long

 

Lesson 1—Equipment

A Few Words of Interest Before you Begin

The Two Branches of Millinery

Origin of the Word "Millinery"

Equipment for Millinery

Use of the Sewing Machine in Millinery

Use of the Binder

The Cutting Gauge and its Use

The Use of the Ruffler

Use of the Quilter

The Underbraider

Suggestions

The Notebook

Important Note to Students

Questions

Lesson 2—Stitches Used in Millinery

Stitches Used in Hat-Making

The Running Stitch

The Uneven Basting Stitch

Even Basting

Back Stitch

Stab Stitch

Blind Stitch

The Catch Stitch

Overcasting Stitch

Sliding Stitch

Buttonhole Stitch

Slip Stitch

Tie Stitch

Saddlers Stitch

Questions

Lesson 3—Materials

Millinery Materials

The History of Straw Braid Making

Leghorn and Tuscan Braids

Milan Braid

Lisere

Hemp

Chip Braid

Yedda

Horsehair

Ramie

Panama Hats

Bamboo Hats

Novelty Braids

Felt Hats

Velvet Hats

Use of Velvet in Millinery

How to Determine the Quality

Duvetyne for Hats

Satin

Taffeta Silk

Transparent Materials and Others

Fur Hats

Foundation for Fabric Hats

Materials Used for Linings

Questions

Lesson 4—Types of Shapes

The Eight Basic Types of Millinery Shapes

Bowl Shaped Turban

The Flare Hat

The Rolled Turban

The Mushroom Shape

The Poke

Rose Petal Hat

The Sailor Shape

The Picture Hat

Can you Point out the Eight Types of Millinery Shapes?

Lesson 5—Wire Frames

Uses of Wires in Millinery

Methods of Tying Wires

Various Hat Wires Named

Wire Frames

Making the Crown

The Square Crown

Mushroom Shape

After the Wire Frame is Made

Other Wire Shapes

Covering the Frame to Be Used as a Mold

Molding Material Over Wire

Covering the Crown

Questions

Lesson 6—Buckram Frames

Buckram Frames

Materials Used in Making Buckram Frames

The Eight-Point Guide

Sailor Brim

Regarding the Sailor Brim

The Bowl Brim

Mushroom Shapes

Roll Turban

The Straight Turban

Poke Bonnet

The Rose Petal Hat

The Flare Hat

Picture Hats

Lesson 7—Buckram Crowns

Making Paper Patterns for Buckram Crowns

Slanting Crowns

Sloping Crowns

Straight Crown

Making the Buckram Straight Crown Frame

Molded Crowns

Questions

Lesson 8—Helpful Hints to be Learned Before Making a Hat & Terms Used in Millinery

Helpful Hints to Be Learned Before Making a Hat

How to Cut True Bias Bands

Flat Fold

To Make Milliners' Fold

Cutting Crinoline

Calculating Materials

Padding Buckram Frames

Split Work

Economy in Millinery

Ripping Hats

Making Use of Scraps

More Useful Hints

Terms Used in Millinery

Questions

Lesson 9—Covering Crowns

Making and Draping the Crown of the Hat

The Sectional Crown Tip

Conventional Side Crown Drape

The Modified Crown Drape

Round Crown Drape

One Piece Covered Crown

The Sectional Crown

Tam-O-Shanter

The Oriental Drape

Covering Crown with Braid

Tucks, Cords and Folds

Questions

Lesson 10—Covering Brims—Linings

The Brim of the Hat

The Lengthwise Drape

The Shirred Drape

The Crosswise Drape

The Over Drape

Covering a Flat Brim

Determining Width

Placing Fold on Edge of Brim

Finish at Edge Without Wire

Cording

Importance of the Eight Points in Brim Draping

Covering Brims with Braid

Covering the Brim with Horse-hair Braid

The Tricorne

Linings

Making the Lining

French Lining

The Plain Lining

The Tailored Lining

The Use of Bandeaux in Millinery

Questions

Lesson 11—Ready-Made Trimming

On the Subject of Trimmings

Feather Trimmings

When Feathers Were First Used in Millinery

The Feathers of the Ostrich

Applying Ostrich Feathers

Wings and Trimmings That are Made of Feathers

Quills

Ribbon Trimmings

Weaves and Designs in Ribbons

Ribbons as a Trimming

Flowers, Fruits and Foliage

Miscellaneous Trimmings

Hat Pins

Buckles

Pins

Questions

Lesson 12—Making Your Own Trimmings

Make Your Own Trimmings

Flower-Making

Materials and Foliage

Making the Full-Blown Rose

The Latticed Rose

Violets

Pansies

Pansies Made From Yarn

Poppy

Field Poppy

The Cherokee Rose

Poinsettia

The Snowball

The Chrysanthemum

Lesson 13—Flowers & Bows

The Use of Bows in Millinery

The Triple Bow

The Spider Bow

The Butterfly Bow

The Alsatian Bow

The Wing Bow

The Loop Bow

The Vertical Bow

The Waterlily Bow

The Tailored Bow

The Wheel Bow

The Crush Bow

The Shirred Bow

The Marguerite Bow

Questions

Lesson 14—Design

Design

The Antiquity of Headgear

The Hat as a Mark of Rank

Through the Centuries

On the Matter of Design

Requirements of Individual Faces

More Advanced Design in Millinery

Millinery Design as an Art

A Reason for Everything

Simplicity in Design

Consider the Age

A Study of the Eight Points of the Hat

Use of the Eight Points in Design

Studying the Eight Points

The Eight Points in Connection with Trimmings

Lesson 15—Color

Color

A Word on the Theory of Color

Hue

Value

Intensity

Beautiful Colors Correctly Used

Color Types

Blondes

Fair Hair and Clear Complexion

Brown Hair and Pale Complexion

Golden Hair and High Color

Light Hair and Sallow Complexion

Titian or Red Hair and White Skin

Brown Hair and Clear Complexion

Dark Hair, Clear Olive Complexion

Dark Hair and Sallow Complexion

Questions

Lesson 16—Your Hat and You

Your Hat—and You

Of Interest to the Short Woman

Of Interest to the Tall Woman

Following the Lines of the Face

Color in Millinery

Harmony Between Hat and Costume

The Becoming Coiffure

How Your Hat Reveals Your Personality

Lesson 17—Planning a Hat

Planning a Hat

The Frame

Choice of Trimmings

A Few Suggestions on Hat Styles

How to Copy a Hat

Questions

Lesson 18—Making Different Kinds of Hats—Sailor Hats

Making the Sailor Hat

Fitting the Facing

Adding Bias Overlap to Sailor Brim

Covering the Crown

Covering Other Hats

Exceptions to the Sailor Hat Rule

Lesson 19—Making Other Types of Hats

Making the Transparent Hat

Making the Crown

Joining Brim and Crown

Making the Satin Hat

Covering the Crown

Covering the Straw Braid Turban

Sewing Straw Braid for the Brim

Sewing Straw Braid on the Crown

Final Finish of the Hat

Other Kinds of Hats

Felt Hats

An Attractive Close Fitting Hat

Satin and Straw Hat

Questions

Lesson 20—The Right Hat at the Right Time

The Right Hat at the Right Time

In the Evening

For Morning Wear

For Afternoon Wear

Sport Hats

For the Elderly Woman

For the Young Girl

The Bridal Veil

Hats for the Bridesmaids

Mourning Hats

Materials for Mourning Hats

The Period of Mourning

Questions

Lesson 21—Making Hats for Children

Making Hats for Children

Making the Tam-O-Shanter

Hats to Match Dresses

Organdie Hats

For the Baby and Infant

Questions

Lesson 22—Renovating

Economy Hints for the Milliner

Renovating Hat Materials and Trimmings

To Clean Ostrich Feathers, Plumes and Fancies

Renovating Velvets

To Make Old Laces Like New

Renovating Ribbons

Renovating Buckram Frames

To Renew Felt and Beaver Hats

Old Straws

Cleaning Silks and Satins

Panama Hats

Refreshing Flowers

Some Helpful Hints

Tinting

What You Will Need for Tinting

Dry Tinting Laces

Liquid Tinting

To Whiten Feathers

Questions

Lesson 23—Hat Box Secrets

Hat-Box Secrets

The Story of the Veil

The Position of Pins

Covering Curved Surfaces

Novelty Trimmings

Millinery Positions

The Final Test

Lesson 24—Opening a Millinery Shop

Are You Going to Open a Millinery Shop?

Concerning Salespeople

Buying Stock and Furniture

Of Particular Importance

Keeping Up-to-Date

Miscellaneous Hints

Questions

Lesson 25—Summary of Important Points and Suggestions on Millinery and Hat Design

Summary of Important Points and Suggestions on Millinery and Hat Design

A Word on the Subject of Millinery and Equipment

Stitches Used in Millinery

Materials

Types of Shapes—Wire Frames

The Buckram Frame

Helpful Hints to Be Learned Before Making a Hat

Methods of Covering Crowns

Covering of Brims—Linings

Ready-Made Trimming

Making Your Own Trimmings

Design and Color

Your Hat and You—Planning a Hat

Making of Different Kinds of Hats

The Right Hat at the Right Time

Making Hats for Children

Renovating

Hat-Box Secrets—Opening a Millinery Shop

Questions