1930—Millinery Processes
by Carlotta M. Brown

WORKING EQUIPMENT AND INSTRUCTIONS

Adequate equipment for all millinery purposes should include the following articles:

Cork crown block. Convenient, for pins may be pushed into the block itself (Fig. 144).

Electric hat block. Electrically heated, and fitted with aluminum crowns of different sizes. It is used to advantage in blocking both the frame material and the outer covering. It is also particularly helpful in the steaming and reblocking of felt hats (Fig. 146).

Tommy iron. An electrically heated instrument used for pressing curves into any surface. It is helpful in renovation when steaming small areas, such as water spots on crowns. The irons are adjusted on the end of a handle which is placed in a square block. One iron is egg-shaped; the other has a flat ironing surface. These enable the worker to press a very small space (Fig. 146).

Tin iron rest. Used for keeping the iron upright when steaming materials (Fig. 145).

Hat stretcher. Used for increasing the head-size measurement of a hat (Fig. 146).

Millinery nippers (pliers) with blunt or pointed ends. Used for clipping wire (Fig. 147).

Millinery glue or paste. Used when placing a fitted fabric covering on a concave surface.

Millinery thread. A special glazed thread which does not wear rough or break easily. It can be purchased in a variety of numbers, No. 40 being the best for general work.

Millinery needles. These needles are made very long to enable them to penetrate deep surfaces. They may be purchased in papers of assorted or single numbers. A practical number for heavy-frame work is No. 5; for finer work, No. 7 or 8.

Scissors. Should be sharp and of good length.

Thimble. Large enough to fit the finger well.

Pins. Small size, with sharp points.

Measuring tape. Cloth with metal ends; distinctly marked.

In all the processes of hat-making there are certain general rules which it is wise to follow. A few of these are given below.

All work should be done from right to left.

All work starts directly at the back of the brim or crown unless there is a definite reason for starting elsewhere.

The center front and center back of all patterns and fitted brim and crown pieces should be marked.

The head size is the first important problem in the construction of a frame.

All brim pieces must have head-size tabs or their equivalent.

Light-weight fabrics will need padding when they are used as a plain covering on brims and crowns.

The selvedge should be cut from all material before seaming.

Bias strips must be cut accurately. In measuring for a bias strip the tape line should be laid at right angles through the depth of the bias, not along the selvedge.

Bias strips have diagonal seams. These seams are always on the straight thread of the material.

Fitted brim or crown pieces have upright seams.

All seams are sewed by machine when possible. Seams are always pressed open.

All seams are lapped flat in making fabric frames or when using frame materials.

Wire ends must be fastened carefully to avoid cutting through the binding and the outer fabric.

Wire lappings for fabric frames are 1 inch, for wire frames 2 inches, and for cord-edge finish ¼ inch.

The following are a few of the common terms employed in millinery:

The hat, or frame, consists of a brim and a crown.

The brim is the part extending over the face; the crown covers the head.

The upper side of the brim is spoken of as the top of the brim; the under side, as the facing of the brim.

The brow line is the line just over the eyebrows.

The head-size band is the narrow band standing upright around the head-size oval.

The crown tip is the oval used at the top of the crown in constructing soft crowns or hat linings.

The side crown is that part of the crown which extends around the head and is attached to the head size and to the crown tip.

The eight points of a hat are front, back, right side, left side, and points halfway between these four points.