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1930—Millinery Processes
by Carlotta M. Brown

CONTENTS

PREFACE

BIAS

Marking
Cutting
Sewing

BINDINGS

Single-bias Binding for Covering Wire
Binding slip-stitched at Both Sides
Binding slip-stitched at One Side
Double-bias Binding
Ribbon Binding
Shirred Binding

BLOCKS AND BLOCKING

Crown Blocks of Plaster of Paris and of Wood
Fabric Crown wired for Block
Wire Brim for Blocking
Blocking over a Cork Block
Blocking over a Wire-brim Block

BRIM COVERINGS

Smooth-fitting
Bias
Bias Folds for Brim Covering

CASINGS

Construction of a Casing

COLOR

Diagram of Color Chart
Importance of Color
Properties of Color
Points to be Remembered

CORDING

Unfinished Edges
Finished Cord
Corded Side Crown

CROWN COVERINGS

Tailored, or Fitted
Soft Crown with Oval or Round Top
Shirred
Bias-strip
Sectional
Upright Sectional
Sectional with Corded Seams
Sections running from Side to Side
Side Crown with Scalloped Edge and Oval Top
Side Crown and Sectional Top in One Piece
Side Crown and Sectional Top Separate
Tams
One-piece
Two-piece Circular
Beret
Circular Top with Fitted Under Crown
Six-section Flared
Fitted Under Crown in Two Parts

EDGE FINISHES

With Binding or Fold
Cord-edge Finish
Slip-stitch
Cording for Edge Finish

FABRIC FRAMES

Materials Used
Alterations
Padding

FACINGS

Soft
Plain
Sectional

FOLDS

Fitted
Drooping
Millinery
Plain
Flanges

FLOWER AND FRUIT ORNAMENTS

Flower Ornaments
Leaves
Fruit Ornaments
Felt Flowers and Fruit
Organdie Flowers

LININGS

Cap
Strip
Sectional

MATERIALS USED FOR COVERING HATS

For Fall and Winter Hats
For Spring and Summer Hats
Velvet
Velveteen
Straw Braid
Horsehair Braid

MEASUREMENTS

Head Size
Crown
Brim

MODELING

Free-hand Modeling
Brim made from Drafted Pattern

PATTERNS

Copying
Drafting
Placing

PRESSING

RENOVATION AND CARE OF HATS AND HAT MATERIALS

Cleaning and Bleaching Straw and Braid Hats
Felt Hats
Dyeing Hats
Renovating Hat Materials
Care of the Hat
Making the Hat Box

RIBBON HATS

Crown Top
Side Crown
Brim

RIBBON TRIMMINGS

Tailored Bow
Simple Tied Bow
Cascade Ribbon Trimming

SEAMS

SELECTION OF HATS

Principles of Design to be Considered
Hats for Definite Types
Influence of Trimmings
Children's Hats
Points to be Remembered

STITCHES USED IN MILLINERY

Slip-stitch
Long-and-short
Cord-edge
Running
Back
Lock
Catch
Tie Tack
Stab
Machine-stitching
Quilting
Tucking

STRAW AND HORSEHAIR BRAIDS

USE OF WIRE

Kinds of Wire
Construction of the Brim for the Transparent Hat
Wiring Fabric Frames
Use of Ribbon Wire

WORKING EQUIPMENT AND INSTRUCTIONS

Millinery Equipment
General Rules
Common Terms

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