1931 - Laundering and Dry Cleaning
Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences,
by Mary Brooks Picken
Pressing
EQUIPMENT FOR PRESSING
68. Pressing gives the finishing touch to dry-cleaned garments, so it is essential that the work be done correctly. Too much stress cannot be laid on the warning not to rub the iron back and forth, but to run it over the garment but once. If the iron is sufficiently heavy, one pressing will be quite enough, but if it is light and must be rubbed back and forth, extra precautions must be taken or an ugly shine will result. Since dry-cleaned garments become shiny so easily, using press cloths becomes an actual necessity.
69. If one is properly equipped to handle such work, pressing may be done as a business. Such equipment does not consist of unusual articles, but of such as will produce good work in the shortest possible time.
Irons are of chief importance, and regardless of whether electricity, gas, or coal heat is used, the irons should be heavy tailors' irons, weighing from 16 to 20 pounds to be most suitable.
The ironing board must be very firm, well padded, and adjusted to a convenient height.
Press cloths should be large enough to cover all garments well, 1 1/4 yards of soft, unbleached muslin that has been boiled to remove filling being preferable. A special, clean cloth should always be kept for pressing white or light-colored materials.
A sponge or small soft brush and a shallow pan to hold water to dampen the press cloth or parts of a garment are advisable.
A sleeve board and a ham cushion or pressing pad are also helpful. The ham cushion is made of firm material in the shape of a ham and filled tightly with sawdust, or small scraps of cloth. It is used to press any rounded surfaces, such as fronts that are shaped over the bust and trouser tops.
METHOD OF PRESSING
70. The suggestions for ironing in Arts. 107 to 115, Home Laundering, apply to all simple garments, but for tailored dresses, coats, and trousers, special treatment is necessary to give satisfactory results. The long, sweeping movements of the iron in ironing are not applicable to pressing, for they are likely to stretch the pliant fibers of some materials. Instead, the iron should be worked over small surfaces at a time with a motion away from you and gradually toward the bottom of the garment. Since tailored garments have few or no gathers, it is not necessary to press toward the gathers as in other garments.
Although pressing is considered the principal method of finishing, steaming is very often employed, especially for materials that are likely to become shiny with the application of heat with pressure. The processes of steaming are fully described in Arts. 80 to 83, inclusive.
71. Hard-Finished Material.—To press hard-finished material, lay it out flat. Dampen the press cloth; then wring as dry as possible and shake to distribute the moisture thoroughly. Place the press cloth on top of the material and press hard with the iron, keeping it in motion so that it will not leave marks on the material. Continue until the press cloth is dry.
72. Soft-Finished Material.—Soft-finished material, especially in blue, black, or other dark colors, requires a little different treatment in pressing, as there is danger of its becoming glossy. Place a slightly dampened press cloth over the material and press lightly with the iron until the press cloth is almost dry. If the material should become glossy, remove such marks by steaming.
73. Material With a Nap.—Material with a nap must have careful consideration in pressing. Dampen the press cloth, but do not have it too wet. Place over the material and press lightly, moving the iron always in the same direction; that is, with the nap of the material. If the material is not pressed in this way, it will have a rough surface. If the material is hung in the open air after pressing, the nap will be raised, thus giving it a softer finish.
74. Pile Fabrics.—Fabrics having a deep pile should be steamed rather than pressed, as pressing will flatten the surface. Follow one of the methods of steaming given here.
