1931 - Laundering and Dry Cleaning
Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences,
by Mary Brooks Picken
Restoring Fabrics
SPECIAL PROCESSES
132. Removing Shine.—Besides removing shine by means of steam, several other methods can be followed with good results. Material that has become shiny may be restored by sponging with alcohol. If the material is seriously affected by shine, sponge the second time with ammonia and water in the proportion of 2 tablespoonfuls of ammonia to 1 cupful of warm water. Shine may be removed sometimes by simply brushing the fabric with a firm brush or by lightly drawing a piece of fine sandpaper over the surface to raise the nap.
133. Brightening Color in Fabrics.—When the color of any fabric has been accidentally or otherwise faded by acid, apply ammonia to neutralize it and then restore it to its original color with a slight application of chloroform. To procure the best results in using these restoratives, a blotter should be placed under the fabric at the spot that is to be treated, so that all superfluous moisture will be absorbed.
134. Freshening Black Goods.—Sponge with ammonia and press on the wrong side to give a fresh, new appearance to a black fabric.
PRESSING SPECIFIC GARMENTS
135. Men's Coats.—Place the coat on the board right side down and press just the facing sections, first on the button side and then on the buttonhole side, keeping the press cloth over the material. Next, turn the coat right side up and, beginning at the button side, turn the lapel flat, cover with a damp cloth, and press thoroughly, starting at the shoulder and working downwards. Be sure to press carefully between the buttons. After pressing, pull all edges into shape and turn the front edge inward with the fingers while the material is damp. Work around the coat, lifting the sleeve up to press under the arms. Treat the buttonhole side as the button side was treated; that is, press the lapel flat and, with the fingers, work the front edge to turn toward the coat.
136. To press the sleeves, with the coat laid flat, arrange the sleeve so that when it is flat on the board the seam will come in the center of the under side. This plan will bring two creases in the sleeve, one at the front and one at the back, as is usually the case in sleeves in men's coats. When this side is pressed, turn the sleeve and press on the other side. Finally, finish the top of the sleeve where it joins the shoulder by placing it over a ham cushion or the small end of the board and pressing.
If a sleeve without a crease is desired, use a sleeve board. Simply draw the sleeve over the board and press, finally finishing the top.
137. The method of pressing the lapel section of the coat depends on whether it is to be flat or rolled.
For a flat finish, start at the button side and crease the lapel from the first button around the collar to the first buttonhole on the other side. Place a damp press cloth over the lapel and collar and press, working the collar around on the board and shaping the edge with the fingers.
For a roll finish, press the lapel sections, pressing out from the seam that joins the collar, and then steam this lightly. While damp, turn back the lapels and shape carefully.
Hang up the coat for fifteen minutes before wearing, so that it may dry thoroughly.
138. Overcoats.—Men's overcoats should be pressed in the same manner as their short coats.
139. Women's and Children's Coats.—All coats for women and misses are pressed also as directed for men's coats, but if the fronts are shaped over the bust, use a ham cushion to give a smooth effect.
The sleeves of women's coats are generally pressed without a crease.
140. Vests.—To press vests, start at the button side and proceed, as in pressing a coat, around the garment to the buttonhole side.
141. Trousers.—Place the top of trousers over the small end of the ironing board with the front opening button-side up. Using a cloth over the material, press from this opening around to the hip, then over the back portion to the other hip, and then to the front opening.
Next, press the legs of the trousers. If the knees are baggy, lay the trousers flat, front side of legs up, and press one at a time from seam to seam over the baggy portion, using a cloth that is quite damp in order to shrink the material. Then, lay the crease in the legs. To do this, place one leg on the board with seams together and lay the crease from the bottom of the trouser leg in a direct line to the suspender button or belt strap nearest the front. Place the press cloth lengthwise over the trouser leg and press from the bottom upward to the crotch. Press the cloth dry, especially on the creased edges in order to set the crease as permanently as possible. If the garment should become slightly glossy, steam lightly.
Now turn the trousers so that the pressed leg is laid out flat away from the worker and proceed to press the other leg as previously explained. When this is done, place the legs together and smooth out with the hands or press the outer sides lightly for a finish. Hang up for 15 minutes to dry.
142. Knickers and Riding Breeches.—Knickers and riding breeches are pressed in the same way as men's trousers, except that allowance is made at the knees for the bands and the difference in shape.
143. Plain Skirts.—Draw the skirt over the ironing board, right side down, and, starting at the opening, press around, pressing from the bottom toward the top. Keep the material covered with a slightly damp press cloth, pressing it dry. If necessary, go over, on the right side, any part of the skirt that may require it.
144. Plaited Skirts.—To press a plaited skirt, turn to the wrong side, and pin the plaits in position at the bottom of the skirt, pinning them to the ironing board, and keeping the former creases as nearly as possible. If preferred, the plaits may be basted in before they are pinned to the board. Then, from the top, draw the skirt tight, and pin to the board along the top. Cover with a damp cloth and iron, pressing very firmly in order to fix the creases in the plaits. Repeat this process around the entire skirt. After removing the pins at the bottom, press over this part while the plaits are still in position in order to press them in well and remove the marks of the pins.
