Early 1940's—Ladies' Garment Cutting and Making
by F. R. Morris

Foreword

THE object of this work is to present to students, ladies' cutters, dressmakers and all engaged in the trade of cutting and making ladies' garments a practical cutting system for tailored garments, dresses, evening dresses, etc. The systems described are based on a thorough practical knowledge of modern garment cutting and are designed to produce garments with the characteristic fitting qualities and style demanded by present-day fashion.

In this work I will endeavour to cover the subject of cutting for all ladies' garments in a systematic manner, leaving nothing to untried mathematical deductions and formulae.

It is generally understood that geometrical calculations are essential in a work on cutting in order to give an appearance of basing the systems on scientific foundations. This is correct when the object under survey is of regular and static proportions to which scientific calculations are applicable. In engineering, mechanics or architecture, scientific calculations may be applied to the working out of problems; in these instances the objects under survey are of definite dimensions and constant in shape.

A garment-cutting system must necessarily be based upon the human figure, which, strictly speaking, is irregular in outline and form though possessing a relative regularity between sections. Consequently the system can only be as scientific as the human frame is regular and proportionate in dimensions.

Science can only be applied to garment cutting as a means to the end of producing a perfectly fitting garment, and in this sense the term means regulated thought and knowledge of the true principles underlying all cutting methods.

It is not possible to draft a pattern by system, visualizing the figure to be of regular outlines easily interpreted by drafting lines on the pattern paper, for there is a decided variation in the sectional planes taken through the bust, waist and hips. When we endeavour to transfer the outline of the human frame to the flat plane of our pattern draft, we must take into account this irregularity of form and appreciate that one section cannot be satisfactorily fitted without taking into account other adjacent sections. When we suppress the back panel seams of a coat, we not only provide indentation at the back waist in our garment but, in addition, provide for a closer-fitting section at the sideseam. We must cut one section of the garment to fit another, and it is this act of operating in one part to produce a finer fit in another which must be termed "scientific cutting."

As indicated above, science in this instance means knowledge and experience more than mathematical calculations. The relative proportions of height and width and deviations from the normal draft for varying figure attitudes may be calculated by scientific formulae based upon the height of the figure in conjunction with the girth factor. Fitting perfection and style cannot be calculated by a division of inches unless we have the knowledge and experience gained by modelling to guide us as to where the necessary operations take place in the pattern draft. Admittedly, the object of framing a cutting system is the endeavour scientifically or mathematically to allot definite quantities of inches to give a uniform successful result. These divisions or quantities must be based on practical knowledge and not just a "play of fractions" dividing the human form into distinct, unchanging, measurable dimensions.

The secret, if there is one, of successful cutting ability is systematic application of mathematical calculations to the definite knowledge obtained from modelling principles and practice. Then we have a cutting system to give uniformity in fitting quality.

Modelling is the basis of all ladies' garment cutting, not untried mathematical calculations. Whenever an alteration is made in fitting, the cutter is acknowledging the art of modelling on the figure. The great French couturières create perfectly balanced and fitting garments by modelling, which are looked upon as the hall-mark of style. Therefore, it is very necessary to realize the important part that modelling plays in the art of garment cutting. For a successful career as a ladies' cutter I advocate that a knowledge of modelling is more useful and instructive, and absolutely essential for sound pattern construction, than all the system drafts evolved. Modelling direct on the stand or figure teaches a student the basic principles of obtaining form in a garment without the complicated lines and divisions of a drafting system. Only when we possess modelling knowledge do we really appreciate what we are aiming at when drafting out a pattern on the flat.

The systems contained in this work are based on practical modelling knowledge, and I put them to everyday practical use.

It is my aim to present systems eminently suited to the cutting of modern form-fitting garments. The closely moulded coats and dresses of to-day require a cutting knowledge of a specialized kind; the average cutting system does not provide for such a close degree of fit and is not adaptable.

For dress cutters and makers the section dealing with the cutting of dresses for day and evening wear will prove invaluable, for in no other publication has the drafting of these garments been so fully described.

In conclusion, I am indebted to the Publishers for the opportunity to present to the trade an independently evolved cutting system giving proved satisfactory results and, more important, modern style and line.

F. R. M.